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AN ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO A TAILOR MADE SUIT

 essential guide to buying a suit

So, you’ve decided to buy a suit but need some tips on how to approach it all? Well, you’ve come to the right place.

Here’s my essential guide to buying a quality tailor made suit. Enjoy.

When it comes to that all round suit that you can wear to pretty much any event (except a funeral), then you can’t go past a quality navy blue knit.  It goes with everything, too – and is essential to any man’s wardrobe.

 

Fabrics

High-quality menswear fabric is quite a niche market when it comes to suppliers, so be sure to establish where and what type of fabric is sourced.

If your store offers a wide range of quality fabrics, then this will indicate a solid and established relationship between store and vendor. Generally, English and Italian mills should also be in the equation here

Tailor from WOLF OF WALL STREET- ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BUYING A SUIT- THE EYE OF FAITH blog

 

The Trim

In the tailor made suit business, it’s the little things that count the most; those nuances that stand out and provide real, long-lasting value.

Quality trims are essential and need to coincide with the fabric on offer. This includes buttons, internal linings and zippers. Other internal trim offerings also include chest and collar canvases, collar felts, sleeve heads and shoulder pads.

There will, however, be hard to establish until you’ve worn and dry cleaned your tailor made suit a few times. If it withstands the test of time, then you can assure you have been sold some quality trims.

tailor-shop-vintage-painting

Handmade

Nothing beats a handmade suit, particularly in areas like the lapel, canvas, sleeves and collar.

When a tailor adds their handmade touches to these specific areas, it adds another layer of dimension to the suit and allows for greater flexibility.

Like mentioned before, it’s those little nuances that will stand out and separate a good tailor made suit from an average one.

Steve McQueen- Vintage Style Idol- Eye of Faith Vintage-8

Number of Fittings

Some tailors will have a policy for how many fittings they will offer you as part of the tailored experience. Once that number is up, though, you will begin to incur additional costs.

Be sure to clarify this with your bespoke tailor before you commit to buying from them. Usually, this will depend on your body and how well you generally fit into off the rack garments as well as how well the tailor measures you in the initial consultation.

Post-Purchase

Alterations and guarantee are key. It’s super important that your tailor has some policies in place that ensure your tailor made suit provides long-term value.

With alterations, a good tailor should allow for natural body fluctuations that occur. If you lose or gain a couple of pounds then you should be covered. This is all within a reason, of course.

Lastly, a guarantee of some sort, either money back or 100% satisfied to ensure peace of mind is essential in the tailoring process. Experienced, skilled and customer focused bespoke tailors will usually have these post-purchase offers, however, it’s always worth checking out before committing to buying from them.

CONCLUSION

Buying a suit can be one of the most rewarding and life changing experiences for a man. After all, first impressions are everything in this world, and what better way than display your confidence than rocking the perfect suit.

Invest time in learning more about FABRIC and TRIMS, and be sure to research where HANDMADE bespoke tailors are in your neighbourhood, and once you get there, not to forget FITTINGS and any POST PURCHASE guarantees and alterations that are included with your new suit.

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After all, life is too short not to be the best you yourself can be.

Who knows what could happen?

Let us know how you went in the COMMENTS below!

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E.O.F. Snapshot of the Day {September 17, 2013}

E.O.F. Snapshot of the Day- September  17, 2013

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Sisters Doing It For Themselves . . .

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 Until next time,

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{theEye}
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E.O.F. Snapshot of the Day {June 5, 2013}

Squirrel Has Got a Cigarette

“You Outrageous Squirrel! You know you shouldn’t smoke!”

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{The Eye of Faith}
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Festival De Cannes 2013 Line Up : A Past, Present, and Future of Cinema + Style

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The Festival de Cannes is upon us again, and if you were with us last year, we had a lot of fun covering the ups and downs of this iconic film and fashion event. After all, Cannes is a place where stars are born, and if you’re looking to get ahead of the game (any game, really) its best to stay up to date with all the festivities.

11.vintage cannes 1955 brigitte bardot alain delon

8.vintage natalie wood cannes

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One moment an unknown is sky rocketed to unbelievable heights of stardom, fame, and critical acclaim for just one night at the star-studded gala that has been in existence since 1946.

This year promises to be as extravagant and elegant an affair as ever, with Baz Luhrmann’s epic telling of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s “The Great Gatsby” to open the competition. The film promises to bring back the Jazz Age with a roaring velocity only the 21st Century could handle.

Other notable candidates competing for the grand prize, the Palm D’Or, are Joel and Ethan Coen’s “Inside Llewellyn Davis” starring Justin Timberlake and Gatsby co-star Carey Mulligan, Takashi Miike’s “Straw Shield“, François Ozon’s “Young and Beautiful“, Alexander Payne’s “Nebraska“, Roman Polanski’s “Venus in Fur“, and our much-anticipated favourite “Only God Forgives” directed by Nicolas Winding Refn, which offers up a bad-ass vision of crime and the underworld set in the sweltering heat of Thailand and stars Ryan Gosling in the lead role (click here to watch trailer).

Also taking off at the festival is Sofia Coppola’s latest film on the scandal and psychology of “The Bling Ring” – the infamous crew of L.A. socialite-wannabes who took media outlets by storm after being caught in a string of celebrity burglaries. The film kicks off the Un Certain Regard category which also includes James Franco’s “As I Lay Dying“. Based off a novel by William Faulkner, the film is written, directed, and stars the offbeat actor, so hopefully people can start giving the guy a little more credit around these parts!

And if you’re not a fan of the contemporary film scene, not to worry, as the Cannes Film Festival line-up has built in dozens of classic films to showcase and celebrate at this year’s festival, showing that  film past is just as powerful as film present, if not even more. After all, where would we be today without some of the great boundary-breaking films that got us here?

Elizabeth Taylor in “Cleopatra”

Bernardo Bertolucci’s “The Last Emperor”

Alain Delon as Tom Ripley - la pleine soleil

Alain Delon as Tom Ripley in “La Plein Soleil”

These films are icons of style as well as cinema, and include in the line up Alain Resnais’s stunningly poetic “Hiroshima, Mon Amour” (starring “Amour”;s Emanuelle Riva), Joseph L. Mankiewicz’s elaborate and sumptuous “Cleopatra”, Jacques Demy’s charmingly whimsical “Les Parapluies de Cherbourg”, Jean Cocteau’s “La Belle et la Bette” , Bernardo Bertolucci’s vivid 80’s epic “The Last Emperor”, and the creme de la creme of vintage menswear movies “Le Plein Soleil”, starring E.O.F. Style Idol Alain Delon as Patricia Highsmith’s cunning antihero Tom Ripley in Renee Clement’s classic 1960 film.

Another of the classics they are bringing to the screen at this year’s festival is Alfred Hitchock’s 1958 masterpiece “Vertigo”. To celebrate the new restoration of the film, the festival has invited the film’s star, Kim Novak, as the guest of honour to the Festival.

The film was not well-recieved well at all in the US upon its release, and misunderstood it remained for many years before the French propped it up for discussion as proof of Alfred Hitchcock’s auteurism (a term for a true artist of the cinema), so its no surprise to see the film celebrated to this day for its subtle artistry in creating an unsettling dreamlike mood that permeates throughout the entire story of “Vertigo”.

Here I was born, and there I died. It was only a moment for you;

you took no notice.

-Madeleine, “Vertigo”

[POP CULTURE MOMENT: Do you remember hearing the “Vertigo” soundtrack at the beginning of Lady Gaga’s “Born this Way” music video? Listen back to the narrative opening of the full music video and you can hear “Vertigo” ‘s haunting theme . This theme is one of Bernard Hermann’s most iconic compositions, second maybe only to the blitzkrieg of strings in “Psycho”. Click here to see.]


It’s stylish, cool, classy, and the twist at the end is bloody brilliant. There might never be another movie like it. We suggest you rent this classic and make a night in watching this with a glass of vino and pretend you’re at Cannes, then dress up like Jimmy Stewart the morning after.

Check out the official website for the full details and for more information about the 2013 Fesbertival De Cannes. If you can’t be there this year, be sure to check back for more updates as they come!

Until next time,

{theEye}

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Style {WISE}: “Rumble Fish” (1983)

As you know, we are always harboring and nurturing our rebellious spirit, and are always looking for tidbits that turn up arms, and quench that vicious thirst!

Well we got a bit of a break by watching this excellent trailer for Francis Ford Coppola‘s 1983 film, “Rumble Fish” – a bit of an under rated marvel in Coppola’s illustrious career.

Shot it in black and white, with an amazing attention to detail, the film delights with a cast of players who, at the time, were mostly new to the game. Now, names like Matt Dillon, Mickey Rourke, Diane Lane, and Nicolas Cage were all quite new to the scene – and it’s quite exciting to see them at what is perhaps their most vital.

As well as solid performances by greats like Tom Waits and Dennis Hopper, and exquisite black and white photography by Stephen Burum,  one of the film’s best features happens to be (no surprises here) the clothes.

The Incredible Suit‘s Neil Alcock has a really in-depth and comprehensive story on the film’s street gang wardrobe, and is being featured now at ClothesOnFilm. (check that)

It doesn’t take anything more than the 2:21 second trailer to take it all in for yourself, so definitely sit back and enjoy this beautiful gem – a little unpolished, and buried, but we got it unlocked for you right here! So have fun, kids . . . Rebels aren’t bad, just a little  misunderstood.

And, don’t get into too much trouble! Although, don’t say we didn’t warn you….

[Photo Source: TUMBLR]

Sincerely,

{theEye}

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Jessica Phyllis Lange (born April 20, 1949)

FX’s groundbreaking and highly original series American Horror Story is unlike anything I’ve ever seen for primetime television. Making it’s way to your local tube courtesy of the folk who brought us Glee, American Horror Story is a robust tale of the classic haunted house told with all the delightful twists a well accomplished horror story should take.

Ryan Murphy and Brad Falchuck paint an image of our America as a gruesome playground for all the spirits (good and bad) to play, but never forgetting the stylish panache it takes to make it in America.

Apart from the fabulous house itself, the actors are a joy, most especially two-time Academy Award winner Jessica Lange who makes her turn as the sassy, cunning, and often caniving neighbour, Constance. In her first regular stint on television, her remarkable performance makes you wonder why she hadn’t done it sooner!

Lange has always been an actress working to sink her teeth into unique, and strong characters. Never shying from the toughest of acting challenges, Lange commands in biographical content such as Frances (1982), where she plays controversial film star Frances Farmer, and Sweet Dreams (1985), where she recounted the life of beloved country icon Patsy Cline. Both films garnered her Academy Award nominations, for which she has earned 6, winning two (Best Actress- Blue Sky (1994), Best Supporting Actress- Tootsie (1982)).


While her performance in American Horror Story isn’t elgible for Academy Award nomination, you can definitely smell Emmy while watching her play the screen with her majestic grace, insatiable voice, and signature style all coming to play in one of television’s finest performances.

Funny enough, Jessica Lange began her career as a model working for Wilhemina before she was discovered by iconic producer Dino De Laurentiis (Barbarella, Blue Velvet) to star in his latest blockbust feature- 1976’s remake of the silent classic, King Kong. While the film was a box office hit, it was virtually panned by critics. Click for a look.

Don’t worry, Jessica! Look how far you’ve come! And if you haven’t seen the show yet, get on it, because you don’t want to miss out on all the fun!

Isn’t she gorgeous, ladies and gentlemen? Let’s give her a round of applause! Comment below.
The Eye.

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