Tag Archives: saint-laurent

{MUSIC MINUTE} “The Wheel of Fortune” by Kay Starr

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Oh, wheel of fortune
I’m hoping somehow
If you ever smile on me
Please let it be now
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Billie Holliday declared Kay Starr “the only white woman who could sing the blues”, and there’s no doubt that while you are listening to this moody ballad of luck and love, you will know exactly what she meant.
She’s also sassy AF which you will totally get from this 1951 colour video of the singer crooning her song which became a Gold Record and made it to #1 on the charts in the U.S.
All the glitter. All the glamour. All that timeless cool.
Thought she was a useful spirit to inspire.
Hope you feel the same.
Until next time,
{theEye}
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+ 90S THROWBACK to HEROINE CHIC +

 

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Photograph by Davide Sorrenti 

There probably isn’t an aesthetic that struck a chord so controversial in fashion as the notorious 90s inclination towards the new look: Heroine Chic. We are starting to see a bit of a return to this vibe in some of the world’s most prestigious runways, not surprising as the 90s is taking the 21st century by storm these days.

According to Wikipedia, heroine chic is defined as:

a look popularized in mid-1990s fashion and characterized by pale skindark circles underneath the eyes and angular bone structure. The look, characterised by emaciated features and androgyny, was a reaction against the “healthy” and vibrant look of models such as Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer

We found this throwback video of a 1997 episode of Fashion Television (I miss you!) on the death of fashion wunderkind Davide Sorrenti who had been one of the industry’s top photographers for this new look.

Taking photos of his friends in New york City inspired by the images of Larry Clarke and Nan Goldin, and coming from a lineage of art/fashion, he quickly became the go-to for this latest look until his untimely death at only 20 years old from . . . you guessed it!

HEROINE! (Not doing very well for the cause . . . )

According to top 90s fashion photographer Corrine Day  (who is often attributed with the rise of Kate Moss to iconic model status and poster child of this new look) in a 1997 interview for Vogue:

“We were poking fun at fashion” – Corinne Day, 1997

Out of the 80s which was all about glam and excess, Corrine Day in particular, stripped down her editorials to the basics, and instead of big butts, red lips, exaggerated bosoms, and endless hair; she chose young nymph-like beauties with a more natural essence and a bit of grit for a more realistic aesthetic that was really a rejection of the then standard of beauty.

It’s hard to get the joke when you use the words ‘Heroine’ and  ‘Chic’ together, and then you think of the deaths of so many talented young people (first supermodel Gia Carangi, actor and E.O.F. Style Idol, River Phoenix, rock star Kurt Cobain, and of course, ‘heroine chic’ proprietor Davide Sorrenti) during this time, making it impossible to reject the realities that this truly was a problem in the industry. However, I think it is a shame to bash the entire industry and pigeon hole this aesthetic and its creators and muses as – EVIL.

After all, in the end – they are images. You take them as you do, and thats that.

“Is Heroine Chic even real?”

That’s a brilliant question Jeanne Beker asks in this clip, and its what I kept asking myself as I watched it. After all, even Bill Clinton had something to say about this trend and its abuse on younger generations who could be susceptible to the cool factor of the fashion industry essentially embracing drugs.

However, it wasn’t the photographers or models or industry people coining the phrase, it was simply a term coined by the media which quickly turned into a frenzy – on the verge of a witch hunt.

There will always be that push against changing times, and interestingly enough today we are seeing the shift realized towards more “full” sized women in the mainstream of the industry. But, in the end, what does that prove?

It is always important to push healthy body image, but honestly, some of these girls (and boys, too) cannot help being that thin, so I always find it unfair this constant scrutiny on body types. Perhaps, the less we made an issue of either end of the scale, there wouldn’t have to be a problem at all.

The truth is we don’t want to accept each other for what we are, which is absolute crime.

In the end, I guess this clip posted initially by Dazed & Confused Magazine really just got me thinking, and would definitely have me thinking for a while.  There’s no denying this controversial era absolutely broke down walls in the realm of fashion imagery, and brought a rebellion to the forefront that continues to this day.

Nobody is perfect, and that’s what I think this era really tried to capitalize on in the simplest way.

Milla Jovovich interviews at Fashion Out Loud circa. 1996 ft. Davide Sorrenti

The elusive world of fashion will probably always have some sort of bad rep, and that’s fine.

But don’t be silly enough to only look at the surface.

Try to dig deeper in all aspects of life.

Until next time,

{theEye}

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NEW ADDITIONS TO THE {SHOP} circa. Feb, 2016 !

Fashion Photography - Aaron Duarte- Angela Xie - The Eye of Faith
Angela Xie photographed by Aaron Duarte, styled by Paul Heaton & Aaron Duarte /The Eye of Faith {Vintage} in collaboration with Style at MAC

We are pleased to announce some new additions to the {SHOP}. Had a lovely lady already inquiring about the YSL Rive Gauche Paris 90s black velvet pleated trousers, so get these finds while they are hot!

We were feeling moody opulent vibes. It’s always a secret society gathering one way or another here at The Eye of Faith {Vintage}. You got to know when to hold or fold, and we all need a place where we belong.  .  .

THE EYE OF FAITH {VINTAGE} - Photo by Aaron Duarte - Style at Mac- Angela Xie- Braeden Militante - Styling- Vintage
Braeden Militante (@bmilitante) + Angela Xie (@_thelorelei_) photographed by Aaron Duarte. Styling by Paul Heaton and Aaron Duarte/ The Eye of Faith {Vintage} in collaboration with Style at Mac. Read our interview with this stylishly discerning society!

Just be yourself! The thing we love most about these finds is the unending options. We are also excited that many of our new additions are for our stylishly discerning lady friends. . .

But, the boys are represented too, of course.

Check it out, and remember that XIXIXI gets you 25% OFF in the {SHOP}

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UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN,

{theEye}

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Elegantly Wasted: A Trip to the 90s with Hedi Slimane for Saint-Laurent

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When it was announced that Hedi Slimane was to take the place of Stefano Pilati as creative director of the iconic label Yves Saint-Laurent, the fashion world was left wondering what new innovations the Swiss designer could bring to the brand. Then he dropped the Yves.

That’s right. For over fifty years the brand has existed as YSL,a brand coveted for its luxury, craft, and intuition; and yet within a few moments under Slimane’s guiding eye, the brand switched from Yves Saint-Laurent, to Saint-Laurent Paris. A seemingly small change, but for fashion insiders, it seemed to represent a much grander prophecy.

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It should come as no surprise, however, considering Hedi Slimane is a designer who is known for being a somewhat of a revolutionary when it comes to fashion. He is the man that ushered a tidal wave of change nearly a decade ago when he was appointment menswear designer for Dior; making Dior Homme not only a coveted brand worn by celebrities from Brandon Flowers and Pete Doherty to Cate Blanchett, but seriously revolutionized mens fashion altogether. While most collections stuck to a very standard approach to mens styles, Slimane flipped it on its head exchanging boot cuts for skinny jeans, made suspenders cool, had young guys think hats are cool, wearing skinny ties, and switching their blazer for cropped motorcycle jackets.

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On top of that, he single handedly changed the standard of beauty for male models, exchanging the buff All-American dreamboat for the skinny skater kid you see hanging out in the alleyway with his friends sneaking a joint and giving each other tattoos. What would have been referred to as the ‘Teenage Wasteland’ by our grandparents, has now turned into the standard ideal of luxury by fashion insiders, which you have to admit is pretty damn cool.

And if there’s anyone who knows cool its Hedi Slimane, who took a break from designing and took a dip into the realms of industrial design, exhibition design, curating, and of course his photography which he showcased on his site, the Hedi Slimane Diary.

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Now, Slimane has kicked it off with his debut menswear collection for Saint-Laurent in this latest F/W 2013 runway show, proving that he’s still got it in the bag when it comes to making mens fashion that feels fresh, cool, casual, with all the bad ass luxury of a world class rock star.

There’s plenty of vintage inspiration thrown in there too, with a definite ode to the 90s.

 

It’s a decadent rock n roll roller coaster of goth and grunge (very of the moment) that elevates the styles to a whole new level (being Saint-Laurent, after all). Plaid shirts, cardigans, ripped jeans, leopard print, fur coats, and oversized jackets – these are the new standards. Vive Revolution.

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There’s definitely nods to the great, late, one-of-a-kind, king of sadness, rebel bad boy, Kurt Cobain in the mix. And while, we’ve seen this vintage inspiration dozens of times in the past, somehow Slimane is able to rejuvenate the look with unexpected combinations of texture, colour, pattern, and shape. And what might seem like odd styling choices, at times, only adds to the eclectic decadence.

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You could even say it ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’, as the anthem goes, but its more likely an invitation to  ‘Come as You Are’, when you think about it. No need to fuss or muss. Just throw it on, and march. That’s the best part for us, and the most alluring and beautiful representation of Cobain’s unique style we’ve yet to see.

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river phoenix in plaid too - rock n roll style idol- vintage style inspiration

 

I see a little bit of River Phoenix in there, too . . . he was, of course, a forefather to that grunge look, and probably would have come to represent it even more if it weren’t for his untimely death. There’s also a little Jordan Catalano thrown into the mix . . .

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His F/W Women’s Collection is equally full of these rebel notions, and 90’s attitudes. You can spot inspiration everything from Courtney Love, ‘The Craft’, ‘Daria’, ‘My So-Called Life’, ‘Reality Bites’, ‘Poison Ivy’, Gwen Stefani, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Bridget Fonda in ‘Singles’! It’s every fashionista’s dream collection, pretty much. Expect to see even more of this on the streets, and anyone who was doubting this particular breed of style, can suck it because this is Yves Saint-Laurent, baby – sorry, SAINT-LAURENT, baby!

Hats off to you, Slimane. You bring the past to life in a whole new way, and that’s what makes us love you most. You show that fashion is about reinvention as much as invention, and to look to the past and give it a new spin is about as innovative as you can get. You remind everybody that everything old is easily new again with a little bit of imagination.

Your vintage inspiration is out of this world, and you keep reinventing, not just how we dress, but yourself, in many ways, which is both aspirational and incorrigible to all those of us who call ourselves dedicated followers of fashion….

So, Merci Beaucoup. Somehow, you’ve made me feel like we’re definitely doing something right. And remember, it’s not about being perfect; it’s what makes you imperfect that really counts.

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E.O.F. XMAS WISHLIST!

Christmas Pin Up Playthings

So, as you know, we are obsessed with vintage, but we all have our wishes, and if we weren’t without a budget we’d splurge on any number of these amazing treasures! Some are vintage, some are new, some are totally unattainable, but one can still wish. . .

I think it reveals a bit of my style mood, as of late.

Sourced from Ssense.com & Farfetch.com 🙂

Tell me I was good, Santa!

TELL ME, GOD DAMMIT!

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Until next time,

{theEye}

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+SEASON OF THE WITCH+

It’s almost time!! We’ve been waiting, and waiting, and waiting, and finally – October 9 does not seem a world away! In fact, it’s just around the corner which means we can delve deep into the latest faction of Ryan Murphy’s epic horror series, American Horror Story: Coven.

It truly is the season of the witch, and it’s been a long time coming. We called Florence Welch a witch last year with her undoubtedly witchy style, and Hedi Slimane created an appropriately witchy first collection for Saint-Laurent, so its about time they influences collided heads to a broader area of our popular culture, and will continue to filter the witch vibes into our everyday more and more.

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Luckily, I already have my big black brimmed hat.

With returning cast members Sarah Paulson, Evan Peters, Taissa Farmiga, and Jessica Lange the show will no doubt be as exciting as ever, its the new additions of Angela Bassett, Kathy Bates, Patti LuPone and Gabourey Sidibey which make this newest addition to the franchise a truly tempting one.

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 Until we meet again,

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