Tag Archives: avant garde

{MUSIC MINUTE} “The Devil is Loose” by Asha Puthli

Well it sure has been a minute since we’ve had the chance for another addition to our beloved {MUSIC MINUTE} corner of our blog. Things have been really hectic and full, which is great, but with summer officially in full swing we are hoping to take the opportunity to put up more content here to ensure treasures of the {PAST} can be upheld here in the {PRESENT} and hopefully continue shaping our {FUTURE}…

Here we have a wicked piece called “The Devil is Loose” by one of those icons that everyone should know (but doesn’t) – Asha Pulthi! This song is from her album by the same name, and was her third of eight recorded albums.

Asha was born in Mumbai (formerly Bombay) February 4, 1945 and trained in classical Indian music and opera before falling for the devils of jazz which she infused into her traditional roots. After graduating from a public University in India, she received a scholarship to go to New York City and study with legendary choreographer Martha Graham (that aspect will make total sense when you see her moves in the video).

Her fate was setlled when her appearance on “Aint it Peculiar” by the Peter Ivers Band which was covered by major music magazines like Billboard and Rolling Stone. Her reckless abandon and joyful reverie was heard (and you can hear it too here– HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) and soon she had avant-garde jazz saxophonist Ornette Coleman knocking on her door, or calling her phone? We may never know…but she would make the most prophetic and signature vocals for his out-of-this-world improvisational jazz album Science Fiction, and the rest is history!

She was signed by John Hammond who most famously discovered Billie Holliday, Bob Dylan, and Bruce Springsteen – so very good company indeed!

Like I mentioned, this is from her third album of the same name (“The Devil is Loose”). Sadly not much is written about this album at all (at least in English) since it never saw its release in the US. But throughout, her vocals are sultry, soft, sweet, soulful and mysterious… her voice vaguely reminiscent of Diana Ross and then at other times as great and grand as Aretha Franklin.

Unfortunately for Asha, the money men at CBS London found an easy way out of hoisting her up and getting paid her proper dues when she became pregnant which effectively brought an end to her escalating royalties.

But before they could stiff her completely, performances on British television  would ensure her the right to negotiate royalties that only major acts such as The Beatles were able to obtain at the time- 14%!!! This and coupled with her pregnancy, Asha was shipped off to Germany much the same way The Beatles had been shipped to Hamburg.

However, unlike The Beatles, this choice by CBS London essentially hindered her career much more into obscurity and  allowed for artists like Donna Summer to build their brand off what Asha had rightfully developed.

She herself claims that Donna Summer, alleged Queen of Space Disco, copped her style- not only vocally, but literally too!

According to Asha, during one of her performances in Germany in the early 1970s she was approached by Ms. Summer herself.

Donna was in this moment “belting out songs” according to Pulthi, rather than the subdued dreamy vocals of Asha, inspired by her Hinduistic classical training, which gave that otherworldly style that would become the virtual sound of any major Munich disco…and would soon be adapted by the now famous Disco Queen that EVERYONE has heard of.

Not only that, Donna Summer allegedly approached Ms. Puthli backstage asking where she could find Asha’s custom made dress, to which Puthli would not oblige.

Donna, unbeknownst to Asha, went ahead and asked designer Bill Gibb to which he refused. Them’s the breaks, I guess.

“A lot of people say that this album [The Devil Is Loose] and the other album are templates that later on Donna Summer, Pete Bellotte, Georgio Moroder all ripped off from my sound. Now, remember I’ve mentioned to you that I was suspended because I was pregnant. So at that time was when they jumped on the bandwagon, apparently. This is what I’m told by people in Germany, in the industry. Because when they called me up they said, ‘We want to work with the real McCoy,”

-Asha Pulthi {source: Red Bull Music Academy}

Nonetheless, she is more and more recognized in importance and relevance for her ethno-fusion cosmic disco avant-garde synthy soul vibes, her out of the world stage presence (her moves have also been centred out as a major influence to Kate Bush), and undeniable individuality. A rebel spirit through and through.

Her first album “Asha Pulthri” was shot by Mick Rock who was David Bowie’s official photographer (she would also go on to hire Pierre LaRoche, Bowie’s iconic makeup artist), and was admired by art influencers such as Richard Avedon, Manolo Blahnik Salvador Dali, Andy Warhol, Diane Vreeland, and even headlined at Studio 54.

Her style was always changing and was always an eclectic mash up of her heritage, the {present} day (for her, {past} for us), and the unknown frontiers of space and time….So, how about that Donna Summer?

She most notably also made an appearance in the obscure Merchant-Ivory art film “Savages”, as one of the three wild women leaving very little to the imagination.

Her music was even literally blasted into space in 2009 from the Goonhilly British Satellite Earth Station on the 40th Anniversary of the Moon Landing. Why, you ask? Well

“{her music is} a form of free-floating, ultra-sexualized intergalactic disco that matched hyperventilating time with erotic electronics and surreal sonic environments. Puthli has gone so far out that she has space walked into inner space.”

As well, she has been sampled by the likes of P. Diddy, The Notorious B.I.G., Redman, 50 Cent, and Dilated Peoples. She even owns writing credits to “The World is Filled” by Biggie Ft. Too Short and Puff Daddy…so yeah!

SHE’S A BOSS

 

Nowadays the notion of a globalized pop star like Asha isn’t too uncommon. Artists like BTS get millions of fans around the world; or take for instance, K-Pop Girl Band BLACKPINK who just performed at Coachella…even the song ‘Jai-Ho’ from Slumdog Millionaire went on to win both an Academy Award and a Grammy!

That is NOW…but back THEN, artists to cross-over these racial boundaries were even rarer which is why still today, we can look back in awe on the incredible artistry, bravery and honesty Asha put forth to just be who she is!

I was not encouraged to do my own songs. They wanted me glam, more Shirley Bassey than Joan Baez. I insisted upon including at least one of my own songs, just one. They (the CBS record producers) already thought I was difficult because I wouldn’t change my name. There is a cognitive dissonance when you have a name like mine….They gave me suggestions like Ann Peters, Ann Powers. I said no as I had already won the Down Beat at that time and had a fan base in India. As Asha Puthli!”

Asha Puthli @ The Grammy Museum  {source}

Oh, how wonderful it is just to be yourself!

Some people might even blame THE DEVIL…which I’m sure is why she created this cosmic disco masterpiece.

See for yourself below:

HOW EPIC WAS THAT?!

{the dress, the moves, that audience, the song…EVERYTHING}

Luckily, so much of her music is resurfacing so we hope this post will help in the manifestation of her glory. Please enjoy “The Devil is Loose” and let us know what you think in the COMMENTS.

If you are intrigued, Red Bull Music Academy has a wonderful interview with this legend published just this last February, 2019.

We barely scraped the tip of the iceberg with this one, so don’t let us down! Go check her out, channel her spirit, and play those funky cosmic disco sounds hard into the night…

+E.O.F. STYLE DIVINITY+

It’s official.

Until next time,

{theEye}

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{MUSIC MINUTE} “Blood and Honey” by Amanda Lear

So, lately we’ve been obsessed with the decadence and glamour of the 1970s disco scene, especially in Europe! And when we found this video by avant-garde superstar Amanda Lear, we found it to be the perfect combination of vintage awesomeness and spooky elegance!!!

We didn’t know very much about this divinity (don’t worry…we will be working on giving her an honored place on our altar of Style Idols & Divinities), but we have been delving into this marvelous woman’s life like no one’s business!

Here is a woman who hobnobbed with The Beatles, David Bowie, Brian Jones, Bryan Ferry, Andy Warhol…had the model looks of Verushka and the voice of Marlene Dietrich. Not only that, she was a close confidante to THE Salvador Dali, and remained one of his closest friends and muses until his death. She even closed Jean Paul Gaultier’s 1980s pop music muses collection back in 2013!

What is so wonderful about Amanda is her mystery . . . sometimes things are best left to the imagination, and Lear keeps this enigmatic quality to this day (her birth date and nationality is still unclear, as well as other rumors circulating)!

This is what we respect most of this bad ass woman! Just be yourself, and everything else will fall into place.

Until we meet again,

{theEye}

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XIXIXI gets you 25% OFF in the {SHOP}

+ THANK YOU // SUPERCRAWL 2016 +

The Eye of Faith Presents TAROT #supercrawl2016

thank you

EVERYONE INVOLVED IN BRINING ‘TAROT’ TO LIFE.

SOKIE SA-TITH & ALBERT SNOW SALON FOR HAIR.

BRANDON MCILVENNA FOR MAKEUP + ROCKING THE RUNWAY

OUR MODELS BRAEDEN, ADRIANA, BENNET, GEOFF, RAQUEL, CHRIS, DANIELLE, AIDAN, SAMARA WHOM WITHOUT WE WOULD HAVE NO SHOW.

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Photograph by Derrick Van Der Kolk

THANK YOU DERRICK VAN DER KOLK & STYLE GROUP FOR COVERING THE SHOWS, AND TAKING WICKED SHOTS OF ALL THE DESIGNS ON THE DAY.

THANK YOU TAROT CARDS FOR ARRIVING ON TIME. 

#SUPERCRAWL CAME AND WENT // THANKS FOR THE GOOD TIMES.

We will post more photos as they come! 

ONTO THE NEXT?

{theEye}

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The Eye of Faith is back for Supercrawl 2016!

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That’s right friends and followers!

We are so psyched to be back presenting for Supercrawl 2016 alongside the city’s best designers of original clothing. Last year not only did we have our runway show, but we also presented a two hour Vintage Showcase the following day, so this year we are so thrilled to only have our runway show to master.

This year, our collection was inspired by TAROT, and we can’t spill too much, but we are definitely sure that we have more than a few show stoppers to give all you fashion lovers the most bang for your buck.

We are also pumped to showcase some original menswear in the collection this year, as well as some conceptual looks that incorporate unconventional materials. Being proponents of vintage clothing, we also thought it would be interesting to use primarily vintage fabrics to create our looks!

This year, the fashion tents are situated at James St. N and Murray.

Our show begins

 Saturday, September 10 @ 3: 45 SHARP. 

Fashion, Art, and Music – the most powerful trifecta – all in one slamming event taking over downtown Hamilton: SUPERCRAWL!!! 

Don’t miss out! Grab a seat and enjoy the show!!! 

Until we meet again,

{theEye}

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STYLE {WISE} Häxan: Witchcraft Through the Ages (1922)

HŠxan (1922) Filmografinr: 1922/06

Poor little hysterical witch! In the middle ages you were in conflict with the church. Now it is with the law.

Title Card: “Häxan (1922)”

We really ought to be saving this one for our own private inspiration board, but a higher wisdom has urged us to share.  We swear!

This sinisterly beautiful Style {WISE} is from the archives of cinema history. Back to the days of the silent film, where the power of imagery ruled supreme.

haxan devils

The film is the 1922 Pseudo Documentary Art-House Horror Silent Classic, Häxan (pronounced “hek-sen”). Imaginations soared through creative interpretations of alleged real-life events right up through to the early twentieth century.  The Swedish Film was directed, written, and starring Benjamin Christensen as the Devil himself.

Ultimately  comparing the hysteria of contemporary (1921) women with the behaviour of the witches in the Middle Ages; the film concludes that they are very similar. Hey, we never said a peep! {click here for more}

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Title Card: Centuries have passed and the Almighty of medieval times no longer sits in his tenth sphere.

Title Card: We no longer sit in church staring terrified at the frescoes of the devils.

Title Card: The witch no longer flies away on her broom over the rooftops.

Title Card: But isn’t superstition still rampant among us?

Title Card: Is there an obvious difference between the sorceress and her customer then and now?

Title Card: We no longer burn our old and poor. But do they not often suffer bitterly?

Title Card: And the little woman, whom we call hysterical, alone and unhappy, isn’t she still a riddle for us?

Title Card: Nowadays we detain the unhappy in a mental institution or – if she is wealthy – in a modern clinic.

Title Card: And then we will console ourselves with the notion that the mildly temperate shower of the clinic has replaced the barbaric methods of medieval times.

Häxan (1922)

haxan

What’s most fascinating is the way they amp up the already iconic images we have in our mind when we turn our thoughts to the idea of witchcraft, the frenzy of the medieval times, and the rugged decay of the Medieval Times. All these elements are intensified and, almost glamourized, for the silver screen in a way only the 1920s could make happen.

Wouldn’t it be great to  see more powerful imagery like this come to the forefront today, while still staying beautiful ? Perhaps some of you beauties will find some inspiration to take with you after your visit here with The Eye of Faith.

haxen

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Witchcraft through the Ages (1922 Sweden) aka Haxan Documentary

Häxan: Witchcraft through the ages, is a true experience for the eyes and ears,  with music beautifully composed by Emil Reesen.

Seemingly a silent horror sensation, but truly a documentation of modern man.

So much faith is thrown into the blind eyes of God, as fellow man takes judgement and punishment upon himself.

1922 Haxan - Witchcraft through the ages - La brujeria a traves de los tiempos (foto) 02

Just a little something-something to get those juices flowing!

Until we meet again?

{theEye}

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Music Minute: “Penumbra” by Bobby Beausoleil and the Freedom Orchestra

Bobby Beausoleil- Friends with Satan

Bobby Beausoleil- Vintage- Tattooed King

Bobby Beausoleil has a bit of a bad rep. Bad rep could be an understatement, but it’s true.

It never helps to be friends with Charles Manson, or get caught up in a war against society,  but its sad to have this overshadow some of his greater achievements, like music. It goes without saying that he was a rebel to the extreme; a hardcore bad boy, his music translates a certain genius that was erased by his life’s tragedies.

Bobby Beausoleil - Do What Thou Wylt

This is a track that was recorded for the Kenneth Anger film “Lucifer Rising” (Anger is also an E.O.F. Style Idol).

Entitled “Penumbra”, and composed by Beausoleil himself, the track was not used for the film, but can be heard today along with the Freedom Orchestra to create a magical and mystic ride to other places. It’s definitely something to jam to, and knowing how the darkness delights you, I’m sure you will find this one truly intrinsic.

Bobby Beausoleil appeared also appeared in Kenneth Anger’s magic short, “Invocation of My Demon Brother”, alongside Anger himself, and the notorious Anton LaVey – the founder and High Priest of the First Church of Satan, and a staple haunt of the entertainment industry in California during this time.

Invocations of My Demon Brother- Body

Bobby Beausoleil - My Demon Brother- Vintage Memories

Bobby Beausoleil, insane in the membrane in “Invocation of My Demon Brother” (1969)

The Eyes of Bobby Beausoleil

So, what do you think of the tune? HAUNTING? ?  ?

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I don’t mean to scare you . . .

So,

+until next time+

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{theEye}
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+E.O.F.+ LEGENDARY ISSUES No. 1 – POP MAGAZINE {Sept. 2008} Starring Naomi Campbell

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+E.O.F.+ LEGENDARY ISSUES No. 1

This week, we bring to you a set of most legendary fashion publications from the past 10 years. Legends are made everyday, and in the fashion industry, magazines are like Bibles on who to worship, and ideas are permeating throughout the scene.

For years we have collected some of the world’s most coveted publications for knowledge, inspiration, and for the chance to watch the timeline of fashion play out before your eyes. Everyone’s got to start somewhere, and some of today’s biggest fashion icons owe their notoriety to the photo shoots captured in these magazines.

We wanted to showcase these works for their superior craftsmanship and innovation, and also show off the timeline of fashion history right under our noses.

This issue of POP MAGAZINE from September 2008 will be the first of our LEGENDARY ISSUES.

POP Magazine - Naomi Campbell - September 2008

Featuring Naomi Campbell on the cover, styled by Miucci Prada herself, this cover marks a transition in fashion to a streamlined romanticism, marked by Prada’s 2008 revival of lace. This trend has since become ever popular for both women and men since.

The cover says “HOT NUNS” right on it, and boy do the people at POP really go the distance with this one. Entitled “NUN HEADS”, the beautiful fashion editorial showcases a strange interwoven tale of nuns in heat.

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It’s nearly as provocative as Ken Adam’s “The Devils”, but pulls out all the stops to make it as fresh and fashion forward as ever. Starring Angela Lindvall, Guinevere Van Seenus, Missy Rayder, and Magdelena Frackowiak – this shoot is a powerful editorial that is legendary and iconic to this day. The nun inspiration also had a huge impact on the fashion world, in general, and really got a huge kick start with these images.

Shoots like that alone, are why you buy a magazine! But on top of that, there are plenty more shoots with stars like Amber Valletta and Naomi Campbell, herself. One of the highlights of the issue is a beautiful story shot by Ryan McGinley featuring Agyness Deyne jumping off of fire escapes in the snow. Beautiful.

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 And on the style knowledge front, the issue provides a beautiful summary and history of legendary Hollywood costume designer Adrian, who designed some of the most glamorous and iconic looks of the 1930s and 40s.

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There’s a lot more to it than just a magazine. This is literally a piece of fashion history, and we are making it available to you today!

We are auctioning off all of our LEGENDARY ISSUES with No Reserve & Super Low Starting Bids.

Some of the magazines we pulled for this drive have been valued at over $300, so don’t miss out on your chance for a great deal. Surprise a fashionable friend with a gift, or treat yourself to a real style treat.

These are some of the most iconic images in fashion history, so don’t let them escape you!

You can check out our full selection of +E.O.F.+ LEGENDARY ISSUES here.

Bid Now on POP Magazine, September 2008 – Naomi Campbell Edition.

Stay tuned, there’s more to come!

Until next time,

{theEye}

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Balenciaga: A Man For All Seasons . . .

Portrait of Alexander Wang by Sebastian Kim (styleexaminer)

{Alexander Wang by Sebastien Kim}

It was announced on the 3rd of December that the high fashion label Balenciaga had appointed Alexander Wang as the new creative director of the historical and revolutionary brand.

Chief executive of the brand, Isabelle Guichot cites Wang’s “modernity and his individual and cosmopolitan vision of design” as just some of the reasons for bringing the 28 year old Taiwanese, California bred, New York based designer on board to steer Balenciaga into the future.

Cristobal Balenciaga Portrait Black and White

Born in the town of Basque on January 21, 1895 to a seamstress mother, Cristobal Balenciaga quickly began his fashion career as a tailor’s apprentice, and by his teens was catapulted to Madrid by Marchioness de Casa Torres, a local noblewoman who saw potential in the young Balenciaga to become a great designer.

He is known as one of the only couturiers in history to possess the artistry and talent to design, cut, and sew his creations. He opened his first boutique in 1919 in the city of San Sebastien, and was forced to Paris in 1937 by the out brink of the Spanish Civil War. There on Avenue George V, Balenciaga opened his house of couture.

Balenciaga Evening Gown 1939

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It wouldn’t be until after the war, and into the 1950s that the designer would take his biggest leaps, revolutionizing the shape and form of the woman’s silhouette, and become notable for his unique and modern designs. Often sculptural and completely transformational, Balenciaga’s creations were, and are still, regarded as masterworks in the worlds of haute couture, modern design, and even art.

Balenciaga  Barrel Suit  1951Museo-Cristobal-Balenciaga

cristobal balenciaga - a man for all seasons

Balenciaga would eventually retire from his craft at the age of 74, and in 1968 closed down all houses in Madrid, Barcelona, and Paris. Several designers who had the opportunity to work under the famed auteur of fashion went on to open their own successful and now legendary fashion houses including Hubert De Givenchy, Oscar De La Renta, and Emanuel Ungaro to name a few.

young givenchy + oscar de la renta

{Young Hubert De Givenchy (left) & Oscar De La Renta (right)}

Actress Kristen Stewart and designer Nicolas Ghesquiere

{Kristen Stewart and Nicholas Ghesquiere}

[Courtesy of The Guardian]

It wasn’t until 1997, under the hand of Nicholas Ghesquiere, that Balenciaga became again known as one of the highest and most elite of labels in the fashion world. Like Balenciaga himself, Ghesquiere was self-taught and immediately caught the attention of the media and celebrities with fresh reinterpretations of Balenciaga’s already revolutionary classics such as the sack dress, and semi-fitted jackets.

One of our personal favourites from Ghesquiere’s reign at Balenciaga was delivered on the cusp of threats to fire Ghesquiere by the Gucci Group if the line was unsuccessful within the year 2007.

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{Campaign Images for Fall/Winter 2007 by David Sims}

His Fall/Winter 2007 ladies wear collection is an opus to the urban woman. A cultured woman, in the academic sense, as well as the worldly sense. With some careful consideration to tailoring and fit, and the use of eclectic accessories and prints, Ghesquiere breathed new life to the idea of the Preppy female, and blended tailored traditions with the melting pot of our society. Credit Ghesquiere and his F/W 2007 collection for that “World Traveller” look that we have consistently seen on the runway and magazines since.

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Though his run is over with Balenciaga, Ghesquiere has plans to start his very own fashion house under his own name; a long overdue and much deserved step up for the 41 year old Belgian born designer.

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{Fall/Winter 2012-2013 Menswear Campaign}

So, all we have to do now is wait and see what Alexander Wang has to offer. Since the incarnation of his brand upon dropping out of design school, his line has been heralded by both fashion’s elite and a new generation of fashion lovers looking for something fresher, darker, younger, edgier, cooler. . .

Wang has taken many cues from fashion’s past to successfully reinvent them into modern and sexy new looks for today. One of the best examples of this would most definitely have to be Wang’s ode to athleticism in his Spring/Summer 2010 collection that had him reinventing everything from the gym short to the sweat shirt into sexy, sophisticated, and beautifully dangerous new pieces.

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If this is any indication of the type of innovation and ingenuity we might expect from Alexander Wang upon his first presentation for Balenciaga in the coming months, then we can not wait to see what is coming next; next for Wang, and next for Cristobal Balenciaga and the long lineage of raw talent and exquisite artistry that he has established.

Ab imo pectore,

{theEye}

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