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Elegantly Wasted: A Trip to the 90s with Hedi Slimane for Saint-Laurent

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When it was announced that Hedi Slimane was to take the place of Stefano Pilati as creative director of the iconic label Yves Saint-Laurent, the fashion world was left wondering what new innovations the Swiss designer could bring to the brand. Then he dropped the Yves.

That’s right. For over fifty years the brand has existed as YSL,a brand coveted for its luxury, craft, and intuition; and yet within a few moments under Slimane’s guiding eye, the brand switched from Yves Saint-Laurent, to Saint-Laurent Paris. A seemingly small change, but for fashion insiders, it seemed to represent a much grander prophecy.

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It should come as no surprise, however, considering Hedi Slimane is a designer who is known for being a somewhat of a revolutionary when it comes to fashion. He is the man that ushered a tidal wave of change nearly a decade ago when he was appointment menswear designer for Dior; making Dior Homme not only a coveted brand worn by celebrities from Brandon Flowers and Pete Doherty to Cate Blanchett, but seriously revolutionized mens fashion altogether. While most collections stuck to a very standard approach to mens styles, Slimane flipped it on its head exchanging boot cuts for skinny jeans, made suspenders cool, had young guys think hats are cool, wearing skinny ties, and switching their blazer for cropped motorcycle jackets.

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On top of that, he single handedly changed the standard of beauty for male models, exchanging the buff All-American dreamboat for the skinny skater kid you see hanging out in the alleyway with his friends sneaking a joint and giving each other tattoos. What would have been referred to as the ‘Teenage Wasteland’ by our grandparents, has now turned into the standard ideal of luxury by fashion insiders, which you have to admit is pretty damn cool.

And if there’s anyone who knows cool its Hedi Slimane, who took a break from designing and took a dip into the realms of industrial design, exhibition design, curating, and of course his photography which he showcased on his site, the Hedi Slimane Diary.

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Now, Slimane has kicked it off with his debut menswear collection for Saint-Laurent in this latest F/W 2013 runway show, proving that he’s still got it in the bag when it comes to making mens fashion that feels fresh, cool, casual, with all the bad ass luxury of a world class rock star.

There’s plenty of vintage inspiration thrown in there too, with a definite ode to the 90s.

 

It’s a decadent rock n roll roller coaster of goth and grunge (very of the moment) that elevates the styles to a whole new level (being Saint-Laurent, after all). Plaid shirts, cardigans, ripped jeans, leopard print, fur coats, and oversized jackets – these are the new standards. Vive Revolution.

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There’s definitely nods to the great, late, one-of-a-kind, king of sadness, rebel bad boy, Kurt Cobain in the mix. And while, we’ve seen this vintage inspiration dozens of times in the past, somehow Slimane is able to rejuvenate the look with unexpected combinations of texture, colour, pattern, and shape. And what might seem like odd styling choices, at times, only adds to the eclectic decadence.

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You could even say it ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’, as the anthem goes, but its more likely an invitation to  ‘Come as You Are’, when you think about it. No need to fuss or muss. Just throw it on, and march. That’s the best part for us, and the most alluring and beautiful representation of Cobain’s unique style we’ve yet to see.

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I see a little bit of River Phoenix in there, too . . . he was, of course, a forefather to that grunge look, and probably would have come to represent it even more if it weren’t for his untimely death. There’s also a little Jordan Catalano thrown into the mix . . .

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His F/W Women’s Collection is equally full of these rebel notions, and 90’s attitudes. You can spot inspiration everything from Courtney Love, ‘The Craft’, ‘Daria’, ‘My So-Called Life’, ‘Reality Bites’, ‘Poison Ivy’, Gwen Stefani, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Bridget Fonda in ‘Singles’! It’s every fashionista’s dream collection, pretty much. Expect to see even more of this on the streets, and anyone who was doubting this particular breed of style, can suck it because this is Yves Saint-Laurent, baby – sorry, SAINT-LAURENT, baby!

Hats off to you, Slimane. You bring the past to life in a whole new way, and that’s what makes us love you most. You show that fashion is about reinvention as much as invention, and to look to the past and give it a new spin is about as innovative as you can get. You remind everybody that everything old is easily new again with a little bit of imagination.

Your vintage inspiration is out of this world, and you keep reinventing, not just how we dress, but yourself, in many ways, which is both aspirational and incorrigible to all those of us who call ourselves dedicated followers of fashion….

So, Merci Beaucoup. Somehow, you’ve made me feel like we’re definitely doing something right. And remember, it’s not about being perfect; it’s what makes you imperfect that really counts.

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E.O.F. Weather Report {Winter 2013/14}

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What we’re working with this winter . . .

So, the weather report is in, and things look grim. Not only because the weather is near infuriatingly cold, but also because black is back. With a vengeance. Then again, when is black not a thing.

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{Sage}

Stuff like that kind of bothers me, because season after season you have to hear the reiterations of what’s in and what’s not (boho, metallics, white, nautical, army)…it all comes around. It all ends up being the same. I don’t believe in these rules, and instead choose to pick an inspiration as it fancies me in the morning.

Lucky enough for me, my penchant for black lately matches up perfectly with what’s in vogue, and twenty years from now, it would still.

Now don’t go on thinking that Canada is always awash in snow and always cold. In fact, we had a very mild Fall, and just the other week it still felt like Spring. But it seems like the Gods of Winter have begun to swell, and are very quickly taking over the lands, so when it comes to getting dressed to impress, we must always remember taking care of numero uno.

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{Rings and things make an outfit look right. Hats keep the ears warm.}

Goal is not to be cold. So I usually always make sure to wear a hat. Most often a toque (even though my hair has gotten lustrously long and I wish I could show it off more :-p).

I also always carry with me a pair of gloves; usually leather, and lined in fur if you can find them. Leather gives off a chic but tough vibe, and also doubles as protection from harm (as strangers will be more prone to think you could be a potential attacker). [here’s an idea]

Above all, the main piece that brings it all together is the coat. You need a coat that is warm, but you never have to compromise on style. I like to stick to leather, as I find it the perfect barrier to the cold winds and the wetness that usually results in winter. I have two main go-tos. One is a long leather hooded trench, and the other is a vintage 1980s number that is more of a bomber style with a detachable wool collar. Either/or give me the feeling of bad-assness that is essential to keeping up my spirit in this wild weather.

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{At the Hawk & Sparrow Flea}

I never shy away from bright colours, and most recently have been obsessed with finding things metallic. My favourite being, a liquidy silver number that reminds me of Kurt Cobain’s Jean-Paul Gaultier look he sports in his “Heart-Shaped Box” video.

You can also work it out with accessories. I enjoy rings and things.

But, whatever the weather one must always feel at ease

with his or her own true spirit. The one that

wakes up in the morning with you.

Mine just so happens to

yearn to be

bad

(/ass)

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Mad Memories- Photographing Suitcases from New York State Mental Asylum

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In 1995, 400 suitcases were recovered from the attic of the Willard State Asylum in Upstate New York. Many patients died at the asylum and were buried in graves marked only by numbers. For many, these suitcases are the only traces left of these sad, lost, and lonely lives.

{click here to watch a creepy video infiltrating the now abandoned Willard State Asylum}

Dating between 1910 and 1960, photographer Jon Crispin has begun the chilling endeavour of cataloguing each suitcase and the contents therein. These people were deemed unfit for society, but Crispin’s photographs reveal a tragic humanity to the individuals whose memory remain in the mysterious objects and photos in these many bags and luggages.

Being the lovers of mystery we are, we couldn’t help but share some of these photos with you here, and the strange enigma they leave for us to ponder.

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[SOURCE: Daily Mail]

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E.O.F. Snapshot of the Day [April 9,2012]


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