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Elegantly Wasted: A Trip to the 90s with Hedi Slimane for Saint-Laurent

hedi slimane- saint laurent 2013- grunge and the nineties- fall winter- elegantly wasted- vintage style inspiration- hero

When it was announced that Hedi Slimane was to take the place of Stefano Pilati as creative director of the iconic label Yves Saint-Laurent, the fashion world was left wondering what new innovations the Swiss designer could bring to the brand. Then he dropped the Yves.

That’s right. For over fifty years the brand has existed as YSL,a brand coveted for its luxury, craft, and intuition; and yet within a few moments under Slimane’s guiding eye, the brand switched from Yves Saint-Laurent, to Saint-Laurent Paris. A seemingly small change, but for fashion insiders, it seemed to represent a much grander prophecy.

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It should come as no surprise, however, considering Hedi Slimane is a designer who is known for being a somewhat of a revolutionary when it comes to fashion. He is the man that ushered a tidal wave of change nearly a decade ago when he was appointment menswear designer for Dior; making Dior Homme not only a coveted brand worn by celebrities from Brandon Flowers and Pete Doherty to Cate Blanchett, but seriously revolutionized mens fashion altogether. While most collections stuck to a very standard approach to mens styles, Slimane flipped it on its head exchanging boot cuts for skinny jeans, made suspenders cool, had young guys think hats are cool, wearing skinny ties, and switching their blazer for cropped motorcycle jackets.

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On top of that, he single handedly changed the standard of beauty for male models, exchanging the buff All-American dreamboat for the skinny skater kid you see hanging out in the alleyway with his friends sneaking a joint and giving each other tattoos. What would have been referred to as the ‘Teenage Wasteland’ by our grandparents, has now turned into the standard ideal of luxury by fashion insiders, which you have to admit is pretty damn cool.

And if there’s anyone who knows cool its Hedi Slimane, who took a break from designing and took a dip into the realms of industrial design, exhibition design, curating, and of course his photography which he showcased on his site, the Hedi Slimane Diary.

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Now, Slimane has kicked it off with his debut menswear collection for Saint-Laurent in this latest F/W 2013 runway show, proving that he’s still got it in the bag when it comes to making mens fashion that feels fresh, cool, casual, with all the bad ass luxury of a world class rock star.

There’s plenty of vintage inspiration thrown in there too, with a definite ode to the 90s.

 

It’s a decadent rock n roll roller coaster of goth and grunge (very of the moment) that elevates the styles to a whole new level (being Saint-Laurent, after all). Plaid shirts, cardigans, ripped jeans, leopard print, fur coats, and oversized jackets – these are the new standards. Vive Revolution.

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There’s definitely nods to the great, late, one-of-a-kind, king of sadness, rebel bad boy, Kurt Cobain in the mix. And while, we’ve seen this vintage inspiration dozens of times in the past, somehow Slimane is able to rejuvenate the look with unexpected combinations of texture, colour, pattern, and shape. And what might seem like odd styling choices, at times, only adds to the eclectic decadence.

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You could even say it ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’, as the anthem goes, but its more likely an invitation to  ‘Come as You Are’, when you think about it. No need to fuss or muss. Just throw it on, and march. That’s the best part for us, and the most alluring and beautiful representation of Cobain’s unique style we’ve yet to see.

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I see a little bit of River Phoenix in there, too . . . he was, of course, a forefather to that grunge look, and probably would have come to represent it even more if it weren’t for his untimely death. There’s also a little Jordan Catalano thrown into the mix . . .

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His F/W Women’s Collection is equally full of these rebel notions, and 90’s attitudes. You can spot inspiration everything from Courtney Love, ‘The Craft’, ‘Daria’, ‘My So-Called Life’, ‘Reality Bites’, ‘Poison Ivy’, Gwen Stefani, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Bridget Fonda in ‘Singles’! It’s every fashionista’s dream collection, pretty much. Expect to see even more of this on the streets, and anyone who was doubting this particular breed of style, can suck it because this is Yves Saint-Laurent, baby – sorry, SAINT-LAURENT, baby!

Hats off to you, Slimane. You bring the past to life in a whole new way, and that’s what makes us love you most. You show that fashion is about reinvention as much as invention, and to look to the past and give it a new spin is about as innovative as you can get. You remind everybody that everything old is easily new again with a little bit of imagination.

Your vintage inspiration is out of this world, and you keep reinventing, not just how we dress, but yourself, in many ways, which is both aspirational and incorrigible to all those of us who call ourselves dedicated followers of fashion….

So, Merci Beaucoup. Somehow, you’ve made me feel like we’re definitely doing something right. And remember, it’s not about being perfect; it’s what makes you imperfect that really counts.

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E.O.F. TOP 10 MOST ANTICIPATED FILMS FOR 2013!

Agent Provacateur - The Eye of Faith Most Anticipated Films of 2013

Those who know me best, know that I am obsessed with movies. Not just obsessed, but everything I think, or see, or do is always somehow manipulated by thoughts to do with movies.

Whether it be noting some likeness to a situation and a particular moment in a film, dressing a part for a day influenced by some fleeting notion of raising up fallen idols, or simply by getting lost in the assertion that life could somehow be better if only it really were a movie.

That’s what I’m talking about here, people! Is that pure crazy? I don’t think so.

What movies have taught me most in life is that it’s better to be bold than not to be, and it’s better to express your ideas in the richest most provocative manner possible! No one likes to sit through something stagnant and flat. Movies can provide an explosively sumptuous experience for the mind, body, and soul, and if you’re catching up with the right one, you’ll probably leave with new thoughts and inspirations.

So, with the New Year in full swing, we have compiled a list of our 10 Most Anticipated Films for 2013  chosen for their unique and divine qualities, these are just our select few of the thousands of films releasing this year that seemed to provoke our spirit and promise to provide that je na sais quois.

10. MAMA { Dir. Andre Muschietti, Starring Jessica Chastain }

Jessica Chastain in MAMA

Everyone recognizes Jessica Chastain for her long, beautiful, flowing red hair, but in this film she gets to show off her chameleon talents. Covered in tattoos and rocking a dark bob, this lady is not to be messed with. Chastain herself described her characters as a real bitch, but in this story of a young couple who must care for their niece who was left in a forest for 5 years, there will probably be enough twists and scares to break down that tough front.

“Mama” is being released this Friday, January 18, 2013. Check out the official site for more details. 

9. ROMEO AND JULIET { Dir. Carlo Carlei, Starring Hailee Steinfeld, Douglas Booth,             and Ed Westwick}

Nothing is more classic than Romeo and Juliet, and you might roll your eyes (bore-snore) at the whole idea of another remake of the Shakespearean tragic romance, but look what it did for Leonardo Dicaprio and Claire Danes back in the 90s (1996 to be exact), and even back to 1968 with Leonard Whitley and Olivia Hussey (did they even do anything better, other than Hussey’s “Black Christmas” ?) in Franco Zeffirelli’s more traditional take – the story is told time and time again, because it’s the ULTIMATE! Too bad Shakespeare can’t be around to collect royalties . . .

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This one stars the Oscar nominated Miu Miu muse, and teen style star, Hailee Steinfeld as Juliet, and young heart throb Douglas Booth as Romeo. Not to mention,  fresh off the Gossip Girl series, Ed Westwick as Tybalt. Round that all off with a adaptation of Shakespeare’s work by acclaimed screenwriter Julian Fellowes (creator of Downtown Abbey, and Oscar winner for Gosford Park), it’s hard to imagine this film not making an impact.

Also, if James Horner is doing the score, the film is most probably legit. Too legit to quit. So keep your eyes peeled for this gem coming this Fall!

8. THE GRANDMASTERS { Dir. Wong Kar Wai, Starring Tony Leung, and Ziyi Zhang}

“The Grandmaster” has been dancing about the scene for a while, and is finally making it’s way to the theatres here in North America (or so they say). Can’t go wrong with the reunion of stars Tony Leung and Ziyi Zhang for an epic martial arts film helmed by the director who first brought them together in 2004 for the incredible “2046“.

And, as with all Wong Kar Wai films ( “Days of Being Wild” , “Ashes of Time“, and “In The Mood For Love“), he is able to elevate the smallest moments, and add a most mysterious beauty to every image he conjures, making this film about the man who famously trained Bruce Lee, more than your average kung fu flick.

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Look forward to beautiful period details, plenty of incredible slow-mo close ups, and some fine acting. Only peculiar thing is Kar Wai is not using his usual collaborator Christopher Doyle for the cinematography, though they have always worked together, creating the worlds that Wong Kar Wai is so known for. We will see . . .

7. THE DRUMMER { Dir. Randall Miller, Starring Aaron Eckhart, and Chloe Grace Moretz}

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God only knows what I’d be without Dennis Wilson, and the legend he has left behind for all of us to indulge. He was a misunderstood type of guy, and if you checked out our E.O.F. STYLE IDOLS & DIVINITIES, you will have noticed The Bad Beach Boy sitting pretty near the top of the list.

He is, after all, a true rebel spirit, with an impeccable sense of personal style, as well as a most talented musician. He is someone who went through heavy evolution throughout his life, but was left sad and lonesome by the end of it.

If this film can capture the spirit of the times, and really delve into the character of Dennis Wilson, there is no reason not to expect this film riding Aaron Eckhart towards a potential Oscar nomination. The film also stars Chloe Grace Moretz as his daughter, Jennifer.  Very excited to see this!

6. ONLY GOD FORGIVES { Dir. Nicholas Winding Refn, Starring Ryan Gosling, and Kristen Scott Thomas}

Ryan Gosling & Nicolas Winding on set of Only God Forgives

“Only God Forgives” is the second collaboration between director Nicholas Winding Refn and Canadian actor Ryan Gosling, who first brought to you “Drive” back in 2011. “Drive” was truly one of the great films of this decade already, and if that is any indication for what to expect in this upcoming film about a boxer involved in the underground crime scene in Bangkok, expect a helluva ride.

The film also stars Kristen Scott Thomas, as Ryan Gosling’s mother who encourages him to seek out revenge on his brother’s murderers. The film was shot on location in Bangkok, Thailand so expect a shit load of neon, some really cool street scenes, wickedly distressed interiors, some bad ass fighting,  and probably some strippers too  . . . Oh, and don’t forget – Ryan Gosling plays a Thai Boxer, so be prepared to sweat a little.

This is going to be classic stuff (as if “Drive” was not enough!), so look forward to this flick set to release this Fall.

 

5. THE GREAT GATSBY {Dir. Baz Luhrmann, Starring Leonardo Dicaprio, and Carey Mulligan}

The Great Gatsby Cover

“The Great Gatsby” was initially set to release this year, so it was such a bummer to hear it had been pushed back until Spring, 2013! But, what do you know, we’ve just begun 2013, and Spring is right around the corner, so I’m definitely excited to see this one. I mean, this is “The Great Gatsby”!! “The Great Gatsby”. “The Great Gatsby”!!!

This is a story that still rings true to this day, and with Baz Luhrman directing the deal, who knows what to expect! As for the production, it seems they have gone above and beyond to bring to life a drama and decadence that not even Clayton’s 1974 vision reached.

Where Jack Clayton chose to create a more romantic Gatsby with plenty of soft focus, and pastel colours, tones of beige, ivory and pearl; Luhrman seems to be drawn to a more electric vision of the 1920s, with plenty of sex, scandal, violence, and drugs dressed in bold, deep, and dark richness.

Judging from the trailer, Dicaprio looks great in the suits (all provided exclusively by The Brooks Brothers Archives), and the women are all fantastic in full flapper gear. Daisy has always been one of my favourite characters, so we will see how Carey Mulligan fares ( who can help but hold a candle to Mia Farrow’s delicate and etheral Daisy?).

Most curious for Jordan Baker, played by newcomer Elizabeth Debicki , as well as former Supermodel Gemma Ward as the “Languid Girl” (according the imdb). A fascinating role with plenty of edge to play off of. Expect to see tons of Gatsby inspiration in all the magazines and media outlets by the time the film rolls out in May. You can already find Gatsby influence in Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall/Winter 2012-2013 Haute Couture Show, so check it out! 

4. GINGER AND ROSA {Dir. Sally Potter, Starring Elle Fanning, Alice Englert, Annette Benning, and Christina Hendricks}

Alice Englert and Elle Fanning- Ginger and Rosa

Beautiful Elle Fanning plays Ginger, a bold and brassy ginger-haired girl with a rebel spirit and independent mind, who finds friendship in kindred spirit Rosa (played by relative newcomer Alice Englert, also daughter of director Jane Campion). Amidst life in 1960s London, and the looming doom of the Cuban Missile Crisis, the two friends experience a coming-of-age.

Ever sine “Now and Then”, I have always loved a good coming-of-age film, and this one being set in the 1960s amongst the great changes happening in society, and Elle Fanning as a surprisingly convincing Brit, this film is one of my most-looked forward to. Just from the trailer, I am completely captivated and sold.

Sally Potter always provides a provocative and enchanting experience with her films (“Orlando”, starring Tilda Swinton, comes to mind immediately), and this one seems to be no exception. Can’t freaking wait!

3.  STOKER { Dir. Chan-Wook Park, Starring Mia Wasikowska, Nicole Kidman, and Matthew Goode}

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This is another one of those films that was supposed to be released in 2012, but was pushed back to 2013 (perhaps for Oscar politics: too many films running so they push it back) making me wait and wait, simply watching the trailers over and over, and trolling tumblr for cool gifs and clues into the film’s entire meaning.

I haven’t figured it out yet, but I’ll keep trying. Brought to us by the director of the Korean cult film Old Boy, this is Chan-Wook Park’s first English excursion, but hopefully won’t be his last.

Mia Wasikowska looks completely bad-ass and sinister (Her name is India, which I love, but is she a witch, or something? There were literally spiders crawling up her legs!!!), and I’ve seen Nicole Kidman mean, but not so cruel, tortured, and twisted; and as for Matthew Goode, I think it’s genius they are turning the usual good guy into such a dark creepy character.

They all have secrets, so it’s definitely going to be one of those nail biters, and is already a film many people are talking about.

You can also check out the haunting score by Clint Mansell for FREE on Soundcloud, so definitely give it a listen. 

Stoker- Mia Wasikowska

I think Mia Wasikowska’s mousy character is going to inspire a lot of young girls, in a way. You will see . . .

Check out the official Fox Searchlight site for more details! 

2. KNIGHT OF CUPS {Dir. Terrence Malick, Starring Christian Bale, Natalie Portman, and Cate Blanchett}

Knight of Cups Tarot

Anything directed by Terrence Malick immediately makes the list. He is not the type of director to always be releasing movies (in fact, his third movie was not released until 20 years after his second), but perhaps off the success of “Tree of Life“, Malick is continuing to ride a particular wave of creativity that has him releasing more films than ever.

This one seems intriguing. Just the title is enough to get me thinking, and with an obvious Tarot reference (I mean, this is The Eye of Faith), how can I not be dying to see this, or at least know what it’s about.

Check out imdb and all you will find is six words to describe the story: “A man, temptations, celebrity, and excess”

I guess he will be exploring celebrity and judging from the Tarot reference, it will be a lot about destiny, and how that comes into play. It has a great cast (Christian Bale, Natalie Portman, Cate Blanchett – all Oscar winners, as well as some rumored names like Joe Mangniello and Frieda Pinto) and I never underestimate Terrence Malick.

In my books, he is God, and his work is Gold, so eagerly I wait for more progress!

1. CARRIE { Dir. Kimberly Pierce, Starring Chloe Grace Moretz, Gabriella Wilde, and Julianne Moore}

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This is kind of like the dream of dreams, right here. I mean, as soon as they dropped that they had cast Chloe Grace Moretz as the awkward, misunderstood, telekinetic teen, Carrie White, and Julianne Moore as her overbearing and fanatical Christian mom, with some serious psychotic notions of faith and morality in this remake of the Stephen King classic – the novel that started it all, “Carrie“!!!

The film is directed by Kimberly Pierce (“Boys Don’t Cry”), so my expectations are high, and after catching the first teaser the studios have released, I have no doubt that the film is going to be everything we could hope for and more!

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Check out the official site: whathappenedtocarrie.com for more info! Looks like you can even try calling her . . . { (207) 404 – 2604 }

SICKENING!

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So, as we said, this is only a glimpse of some of the coolest films we are most looking forward to, but there are probably many more! If we’ve missed any that you think deserve a look at this 2013, let us know in the comments below!

Keep your eyes, because these are the films that are going to make an impact on the scene this 2013!

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Well, that’s a wrap, for now . . .

Until next time,

{theEye}

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Vanity Fair Names Their Icons of Style

Vanity Fair does as they do with their latest list of Style’s Greatest Icons. Picking from all of Hollywood history, writer Amy Fine Collins makes a jab at finding those identities who fascinate, inspire, and continually resonate with lovers of style and fashion.


For a list of 21 of the ultimate icons of style, we’re a little let down. The list is GOOD – pretty much your usual list including Marilyn, Audrey, Lauren, and Bette, and more current stars like George Clooney and Penelope Cruz making the cut. While Marlon Brando and Jean-Paul Belmundo made the cut, I was shocked not to find James Dean pop up on the list! I mean, George Clooney and NOT James Dean??! WTF?

I could go into more wishes and wants, but I won’t. Instead, take a look for yourself at the list, and let us know what YOU think! Who would you add to the list?

Here’s the list:

Fred Astaire
Grace Kelly
Marlon Brando
Lauren Bacall
Audrey Hepburn
Marlene Dietrich
Bette Davis
Marilyn Monroe
Leonardo Dicaprio
Joan Crawford
Penelope Cruz
Carole Lombard
Charlotte Rampling
Nicole Kidman
Jean Harlow
Clark Gable
Harry Belafonte
Johnny Depp
Cate Blanchett

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I do sincerely appreciate having Carole Lombard and Charlotte Rampling make the cut, but or me the biggest surprise was Leonardo Dicaprio. He’s the youngest name on the list, and although I’ve been musing over pictures of him in the 90s, I very often forget to credit the man for his continually classic and easy way about him. While the clothes are great, it’s the devil may care approach he takes to wearing them that really make his looks sing.

That for me is the biggest sign of true deep down in the heart style. For it’s not about what you wear, it’s who’s wearing it, and more often than not, that person is you!

The thing that makes each of these people a star is their ability to project a sense of self, and be fully committed to it. In the same respect, it is their ability to lose this self at the snap of a finger that makes being a star a true craft.

The films they are in are just the backdrop. The clothes a part of the scenery. It is all inspiration, and as Amy Fine Collins notes, designers today are continuously reinventing and re imagining films of the past to realize their vision for today.

That’s why we are continually looking to the past to inspire and tell us stories. Moments of magic to reinvent. For there is a beautiful mystery to the idea of being a star, especially the leading men and starlets of Hollywood Golden Years. A certain spirit seems to take over these mere mortals the second the lights are on and the camera is rolling. In the blink of an eye, that person is made immortal through the magical alchemy of light and silver.

“Everything…was an exaggeration of history, fiction and the whole wide extraordinary world.” states legendary Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. Sometimes there’s nothing better than a little exaggeration to get us through the day…

So as I was saying, the list is good, but our own E.O.F. Style Idols and Divinities are pretty damn special in their own right.

What’s the use of having a million lists online that tell me Audrey Hepburn is the best dressed woman there ever lived. Same goes with Grace Kelly, and Nicole Kidman (?? I mean, really??)…its 2012, after all, can’t things start to get a bit more interesting especially when it comes to our style icons…

The fashion world right now is ever changing, and in our post modern bubble, there is infinite possibility out there. There are also literally hundreds of styles being represented out there, so to always have lists of Style Icons that are the same really makes for not very much progress…

Seeing as it is 2012, I foresee great changes in the midst, especially in accord to perceptions of style. There is a younger generation of style aficionados out there, more equipped than we were ever to analyze and take on new ideas in dressing.

While the classics will also stay as such, style enthusiasts should definitely make room for finding new influences our predecessors, blinded by the flickering of celluloid, were not able to pick up on and bring these lost ideals to the forefront…

This goes for all areas of life. Don’t just blindly live your life being told what is what. Make it so by your own actions and doing.  Dress the part! Be the star! Change the world! That’s the message…and for that, Vanity Fair, we must thank!

So remember, stay wise, and don’t get caught floating in the status quo.

Yours truly,

{theEye}

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